That's the short version, now let's expand on each of the above points
To clear the nipple channels, put a cap on each nipple and
discharge them.
This is called "capping off", and will make you decidedly
unpopular if you do it while people are forward of the firing point.
It's also only allowed after the command to load and fire is given -
and in MLAGB competitions you can't do it during the "make ready"
period.
Add a powder charge into one chamber.
Traditionally powder flasks have been used, but it's becoming
increasingly common to use phials - and at some meetings it's now
mandatory. This is probably a good thing as it lessens the chance of
a powder flask explosion, and phials are available cheaply enough.
As to how much and what type of powder to use, well Swiss No 2 is
the popular choice among seriouse pot-hunters, but any medium powder
will work well enough. For Swiss number two, anything between about
15 and 22 grains will work well, and for other medium powders go for
18-24 grains. Anything more than this will just give a bigger bang,
but shouldn't do the gun any harm.
Stick a wad on top of the powder and ram it home
This is for two reasons - first to make sure there's no air gap
between the powder and the ball, and second to reduce the "jump"
between the ball and the barrel when you fire. The experts all say
that reducing the "jump" between chamber and muzzle is essential for
accuracy, so who are we to argue. Wads work fine, but they're
expensive, and they come as either plain or lubed. For comps where
you have to reload quickly like in Historic Revolver, they're a good
choice, as they're quicker and easier than the alternative, which is
to use a filler. You can use virtually anything as a filler, the
real trick is to find one which measures easily from a powder flask.
I've seen all kinds of things used from soap powder to semolina and
cous-cous to bulgar wheat so experimentation is called for.
